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Madeleine Vionnet, by Betty Kirke
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This "spectacular tribute to a designer of breathtaking grace and originality" (Threads) is the definitive volume on the legendary Madeleine Vionnet's life and work. Now back in print with a fresh new cover, this reissue marks the occasion of the 100th anniversary of the House of Vionnet and the revival of the Vionnet brand. Lavishly illustrated in over 400 photographs, sketches, and with complete patterns for 30 of the most influential designs of this architect among dressmakers, this exquisite volume is an essential reference for fashion students and a vibrant portrait of a grande dame of 20th century couture.
- Sales Rank: #378954 in Books
- Brand: Kirke, Betty/ Miyake, Issey (FRW)
- Published on: 2012-09-12
- Format: Deluxe Edition
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 14.75" h x 1.00" w x 10.50" l, 5.35 pounds
- Binding: Hardcover
- 244 pages
Amazon.com Review
Madeleine Vionnet's greatest distinction as a designer was her discovery of the bias cut. Cutting patterns along the bias forces the fabric to cling to the body and move with it, which created her trademark look of draped, form-conscious clothing. When designer Issey Miyake first saw a Vionnet dress, it was like the first time he saw Winged Victory at the Louvre: "I thought then that the statue of Nike had been reincarnated in the dresses by Vionnet. She had captured the most beautiful aspect of classical Greek aesthetics: the body and movement." Vionnet's long career as a dressmaker and designer began with the 20th century. Always conscious of women's bodies and inspired in part by modern dancer Isadora Duncan, she soon dispensed with corsets and other constricting garments, and used barefoot models to present her first solo collection. Though simple, her dresses were never plain; the use of a Cartier necklace as a halter strap is a classic Vionnet innovation. This inimitable combination of comfort and glamour made Vionnet's clothes a favorite among European nobility, Hollywood royalty--notably Marlene Dietrich, Gypsy Rose Lee, and Katharine Hepburn--as well as socialites and other trendsetters. Close to a century after its introduction, the bias cut remains an important element in clothing design.
Madeleine Vionnet is a tall book that echoes many of the designs inside. It is filled with contemporary photographs of the clothing, period pictures shot by Man Ray and Steichen, design sketches, and, perhaps most interestingly, patterns for the clothes. The accompanying text traces Vionnet's evolution from an 11-year-old seamstress, through her days apprenticing at the famed Callot Soeurs couture house in Paris, and on into the design empire that secured her an enduring spot in fashion history.
From Library Journal
This oversized book is costume historian Kirke's singular achievement, over 20 years in the making, and includes interviews with Vionnet (1876-1975) herself. The sexy, slinky bias-cut dresses associated with the 1930s were invented by Vionnet to move with the body and show every curve. Over 400 illustrations?45 in color?include archival photographs and magazine illustrations. A unique feature is the inclusion of 38 cutting patterns produced between 1917 and 1938. Cutting clothes for a woman's body was a geometric puzzle for Vionnet, and chapters are arranged by the rectangles, quadrants, and triangles that composed the gowns. Even surface decorations and furs were intricately cut. The "queen mother of haute couture" retired in 1939, but designers ever since have looked to her for inspiration. This expensive book is well worth the price for fashion and design collections.?Therese Duzinkiewicz Baker, Western Kentucky Univ. Libs., Bowling Green
Copyright 1998 Reed Business Information, Inc.
Review
"The book comprises 400 photographs, 38 original dress patterns and interviews with the designer herself. Colorful visuals showcase Vionnet's preference for Grecian-style dresses and the bias cut, the latter on display in one of her black silk, satin-backed cr�pe dresses, which she fitted with ripples at the hems and matched with a high neckline. Vionnet loved flow in dresses -- so did her famous clients like Marlene Dietrich and Joan Crawford -- and she was famously opposed to corsets. 'I have never been able to tolerate corsets myself, so why should I inflict them on other women,' she has been quoted as saying." --New York Times T Style Blog
Most helpful customer reviews
45 of 45 people found the following review helpful.
Exceptional insight into bias construction. Amazing book!
By A Customer
Probably the best book I have read on bias construction. Decribes many of the techniques Vionnet used, like rules for mixing bias with straight weaves. The scale patterns are a major plus.
32 of 32 people found the following review helpful.
Fabulous book!
By A Customer
Finally, a fashion book worthy of its subject! This is a big, beautiful book, with high production values and gorgeous design. The writing is thoughtful and intelligent. The contents are informative and interesting. The photos are wonderful and the illustrations and patterns are amazing. I can't say enough good things about this book!
Too many fashion books have terrible writing paired with "artistic" photos that obscure the clothes. This book makes none of the mistakes that plagued recent books on St. Laurent and Beene. It's a wonderful book for fashion historians, dressmakers, and designers.
And Amazon's price is half of the bookstore price!
I recommend this book very highly.
34 of 36 people found the following review helpful.
Vionnet
By Nevada Snow
It's so sad that the name of Madeleine Vionnet is today only familiar to students of fashion history. She was a revolutionary couturiere who still influences designers over half a century after her retirement. This is one of the best books about her work. I especially loved the reproduced dress patterns which reveal the extent of Miss Vionnet's genius. This book deserves to be reprinted.
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